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Thread: Motorcraft battery eye indicator colour

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    23

    Default Motorcraft battery eye indicator colour

    Can anyone tell me the correct answer as there seems to be conflicting websites which say a healthy battery should be showing what colour.

    Ideally if anyone has a brand new motorcraft battery fitted, please tell me the colour in the eye. Is it red or green.

    Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Sussex
    Posts
    1,824

    Default

    Normally green would indicate a good battery-but remember the 'magic eye' is only indicating the condition of one cell.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    23

    Default

    .....and so basically if one cell is down, its new bty time.

    Cheers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Sussex
    Posts
    1,824

    Default

    Yes-but have your battery checked with a tester to confirm the condition-most garages etc will do a battery check for free...........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Better late than never!!! The Magic Eye® that is used in Motorcraft batteries provides 4 stages of indication, they are:
    1. Green: battery is charged and the acid level is good.
    2. Yellow: Battery is partially dis-charged and the acid level is good. Re-charge the battery or drive the vehicle.
    3. Red: Battery is dis-charged and the acid level is good. Charge the battery.
    4. Clear and bright: Acid level is low!!! Add distilled water if possible. If not, change out the battery. Do not charge or jump start the battery!!!

    While the Magic Eye® is only located in one cell, it is still quite accurate for indicating the state of charge of all cells as they are within 95% of the same condition. If there is a catastrophic failure such as an internal short circuit, the battery would be bad, but the eye would still show green as the density of the acid is still technically correct. This is very rare.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    1

    Default Thanks for this - this might explain my battery problems a lot...

    I know this is an old post but this explanation on here might explain my battery problems a lot.

    For about 6 months now I've had a number of strange electrical problems with my car, and of all the problems it seems to all point towards one thing - a battery beginning to fail.

    It is weird though because a lot of people keep telling me it can't be the battery because my vehicle starts fine everytime. However there are a number of things I've noticed.

    Firstly I have a 12V socket battery/alternator checker. Last year the alternator failed on the car, when the alternator failed we noticed that the alternator light was barely going into the green. Also the battery light was switching between yellow and red.

    We thought that well the battery has also probably bit the dust too, however looking at the top of the battery the "magic eye" on the battery (it's a General Motors battery not a moorcroft battery) was showing green, we also had someone put a battery tester on it and they said it was fine.

    However there is a few things we've noticed the main thing being the power steering repeatedly failing. We have been told that as it's a Vauxhall it does have electric power steering and any problems with power within the car would first be noticed by the power steering as the car shuts the power steering off first to give it more power for other things.

    With the power steering we've noticed it only seems to fail at two points - firstly if we leave the car switched on for about 5 minutes with just the accessories on (radio/electric windows/12v sockets/etc) and nothing else (engine not running) and then start it we initially don't have any power steering until we've given the engine a few full revs. Also looking at the 12v socket battery tester, initially it shows the battery is at YELLOW and then very quickly drops into RED - once the engine is running it shoots straight back up to GREEN. The main thing is I don't exactly know what voltage RED/YELLOW or GREEN refer to but I'm guessing that YELLOW or RED isn't good. When the engine is running if it's just ticking over the lights on the alternator side are quite bright, the yellow and green one are very bright, but on the battery side the green one is only just about glowing, if I accelerate then the green light gets brighter briefly - I presume that's because the alternator is then putting more juice into the battery.

    The second time the power steering fails is if I'm in heavy traffic, the temperature gauge on the car engine starts increasing slightly, and once it hits about the quarter mark then the power steering starts to fail. The other week I got stuck in traffic at night, and the power steering started failing when it started heating up. I also noticed that when it was failing the headlights also started to dim a bit too when turning the wheel, and the battery tester was actually showing the battery level falling into yellow whilst the alternator was going slightly into the red (overcharging). Of course without knowing exactly what level these red yellow and green lights turn on at it could mean anything.

    I know some faulty batteries tend to fail when they get cold, but can they also fail when they get warm? And I don't quite understand why my battery tester in the 12v socket is showing the battery is bad at times and drains to red very quickly and yet the Magic Eye shows the battery as fine, and testing the battery on top also shows the battery as fine. I'm guessing that this battery tester is testing the battery in a different way and is showing the defect up more than the magic eye or battery tester would.

    The battery itself is a very old battery - we've had the car since 2013 now and we've never replaced the battery in it, prior to that it had one previous owner since 2005, they kept all the receipts and looking through them we can't see any reference to it ever having a new battery either, also it is a GM battery which as it's a Vauxhall does seem to be the original manufacturer battery - but surely batteries can't last 15 years can they???

    We've seen an Exide Premium battery at a low price from Tanya Batteries and we are thinking of getting that to replace it as Exide Premium seem to have a good reputation, and Tanya are selling it over 50 less than Euro********.

    Quote Originally Posted by martune View Post
    Better late than never!!! The Magic Eye® that is used in Motorcraft batteries provides 4 stages of indication, they are:
    1. Green: battery is charged and the acid level is good.
    2. Yellow: Battery is partially dis-charged and the acid level is good. Re-charge the battery or drive the vehicle.
    3. Red: Battery is dis-charged and the acid level is good. Charge the battery.
    4. Clear and bright: Acid level is low!!! Add distilled water if possible. If not, change out the battery. Do not charge or jump start the battery!!!

    While the Magic Eye® is only located in one cell, it is still quite accurate for indicating the state of charge of all cells as they are within 95% of the same condition. If there is a catastrophic failure such as an internal short circuit, the battery would be bad, but the eye would still show green as the density of the acid is still technically correct. This is very rare.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    7,275

    Default

    The, 'magic eye', works by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte, this changes with state of charge.

    The battery monitor, is doing a voltage check, testing the battery with a volt meter is similar.
    Or you can have a, 'load test', where a load is put on the battery, and the voltage is checked under load, and how fast it recovers.

    The battery does sound old, make sure the replacement is to the correct specification.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    7,275

    Default

    I had to rush off, I intended to add -

    12.7v is 100% charge off load.

    12.5v 90%

    12.4v 80%

    12.3v 70%

    12.2v 60%

    12.1v 50%

    down to

    11.3v 10%

    The above assumes all cells are working.

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