pesky modern electric on cars! Confused is an understatement, reading some other threads I thought the fact that no codes had been stored again despite the fact that the light had been on for significant periods of time pointed more to a dirty egr, but interesting that the code could point to the MAF. My master plan is to (get my dad to) clean the flaps etc. If that doesn't work then it will have to wait til the new year for a new MAF, I can't afford one before Christmas! Thanks for all your advice
I have a 53 Zafira 2.0 dti with a P0400 error.
Previously i have had P1105/P0105 codes every 3 months but managed to cure this by doing the following maintenance.
Last weekend i cleaned the MAF and sensor, took EGR valve off and cleaned until it looked brand new, stem was moving freely. Took inlet manifold cover off and cleaned all 8 holes on inlent manifold body (4 with flaps). I didn't actually take this off as was worried about stuff falling into engine, but managed to get it farily clean.
Put all back together after cleaning existing gaskets and using some gasket sealer (put old rubber o ring back on egr), cleared code and took it for a run.
Ran great, but after 4 days P0400 code came back and went into limp mode.
Starts perfect then EML light comes on after about 30 seconds even just ticking over, every day. Sometimes it goes off for a few seconds but then returns.
Is there anyway to check the EGR valve (electronic version) before i fork out nearly Â£300 for a new one. I had this replaced about 2 years ago. I did clean up the inside the top part by removing the plastic casing, but not the bottom. I read somewhere there is a diaphragm inside which may be split.
One thing i noticed recently is that if i pull away from stationary the car surges, so i have to keep the revs low while i release the clutch.
Thanks in advance for any advise. I am on the verge of torching it for an insurance claim
PS, temperature dropped recently if that has anything to do with it.
It could still be the flaps in the manifold sticking. I think the best way is to remove the manifold and give it a good clean up and lube to make sure the flaps operate easily with little force.
I have seen people clean these manifolds using a scraper and a vacuum cleaner with a nozzle made from a length of 22mm copper tube but, I think it is much easier and better to do it off the engine.
Agree with MrDanno but the electric type EGR valves are not the best. It can be tested by removing it, connecting to a scanner and operating it. Or use a scanner with it still in place and move it and see if the engine speed changes at all.
The price seems a bit high. Try Autovaux for one, about £125 (if I remember correctly) plus vat.
thanks for the quick reply, not sure what a scanner is, is there a way of applying power to the terminals while the egr is off the car ? Just checked autovaux and Â£182, so at least not Â£280 that dealers quoted.
Originally Posted by Hometune
If i can test and prove the egr is working, i will bite the bullet and take the manifold off, just nervous taking so many things off, especially the injector pipes again.
Can the egr be stripped down any further than the top plastic grey cover.
Sorry to ask, just looking for a diy fix as a bit skint this side of xmas!
I removed & cleaned the swirl flaps on my 2 litre DTI (Y20 DTH) a few weeks ago. Its not a bad job to do (apart from getting your hands clean afterwards) if you take your time with it. As soon as the lower manifold came off i placed some clean rag over the ports in case anything fell down there.
You really need to remove the lower manifold that houses the swirl flaps to clean things up properly.
When you cleaned the EGR did you remove the plastic cover to clean out what collects underneath? There is a little cam & spindle that was clogged up on mine causing the thing to stick. Unless you have a new EGR to fit i would not reccomend stripping it down any further as they are reckoned to be a delicate little beast.
I would give it a try before changing the EGR.
Maybe not the same problem as you have, but last weekend my spanner light came on when started up, went out after a few minutes of running. This is a classic sign of glow plug failure, in my case anyway. A multimeter confirmed that 1 plug was open circuit.....the rest were showing a resistance of just under 1 ohm (as was the new replacement one) which will be about correct as they do have a fairly low resistance.
I renewed the u\s one & problem went away. Maybe worth checking.
Thanks for all the replies, if i get chance this weekend i will remove the bottom part of manifold and clean.
Originally Posted by mick.n
I really do suspect the EGR is faulty as i cleaned the swirl flaps quite well without removing, and i would love to confirm this by taking it off and applying some power to see if it opens / closes. Can this be done with 12v to the terminals.
Thanks for the advise of not stripping down further, i got to admit i was tempted.
IIRC, there are more than 2 wires going to the EGR, so unless you are absolutely certain which ones to apply voltage to i would give this a miss.
Also, it may not be a full 12 volt that is supplied to the EGR..
Thanks, i don't think i will be trying anything like that as a DIY mechanic.
Originally Posted by mick.n
Check this out though
The past 3 mornings temp has been below zero and car has started perfect. I have left it running without applying any revs for 15 minutes to warm car up for the wife for school run (before i jump on my bike to freeze my nads off going to work) and no EML light has come on. As soon as the car is pulled off the drive at low revs, EML light comes on ! Seems its happening as soon as the engine is under the slightest strain.
Strange, but more clues to the problem!
Tomorrow i am going to take EGR off and clean again and apply some copper grease that will not wear off. Lets see if that helps. Still trying to get a valve at a reasonable price but they are like gold dust!