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Thread: Zafira Power Loss Problem

  1. #21
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    May 2008
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    Is your engine the 16 valve one? if so, when the EGR was replaced why was this? Was a diagnostic check done to determine what it was doing? At idle on a hot engine the live data reading would be around 35-45% for the EGR after a quick stab on the accelerator pedal.
    If the EGR was changed because of a fault code such as P0400 then it is more likely to be a blocked airway in the air flap housing (throttle housing). Many garages are not aware of the concentric housing and carbon blocks up the thin gap between the parts.

  2. #22
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    Sep 2009
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    mickjo, I have never found a solution to the 2000rpm stutter. I now know to give it a bit more pedal when I am getting near 2000 rpm. Apart from this engine design fault, it's a lovely car to drive. The problem seems to be worse when going up a steep hill. I believe that somehow the engine is being starved of the fuel it needs in those particular conditions - as if the supply is throttled, and the timing of the throttle application is supposed to match a certain engine rpm, but it is out on these early zaf b's. Just my theory about it!

  3. #23
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    Mar 2012
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    Hi there,
    Mines the 8v engine.
    The car on start-up the car refused to rev up, basically like an old carb escort with a flooded engine. Eventually you could tease the engine above 2k revs and then suddenly whroom away it would go like normal, you could drive it as it always had done, but then say after a drive at 70mph then after a run-down to a roundabout and stop for traffic, it would again struggle and refuse to rev eventually away it would rev up and away it would go.
    My wife uses the car a lot around town for her work but has good runs as I like to thrash it well. There has been no diagnostic test done other than the pedal test displaying a minor glo plug code fault that has been there for 3 years.
    On advice I had the diesel filter changed as the diesel tank level was down to very very low before we managed to fill it up thinking we sucked some **** from the tank. That didnt work so changed then the EGR as was told it fails at low load and is a common fault when used around town a lot. The inlet manifold sensor cleaned as well, it was extreamly carbonised up. I becoming to believe the new EGR valve is faulty, however I was informed the valve was a genuine OPAL replacement, the valve markings were identical but for the fact the electrical connection was 180 deg from the original which was suspicious. Any thoughts please.
    mick

  4. #24
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    May 2008
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    When the EGR valve was replaced, were the manifold and the air flap (throttle housing) removed and properly cleaned out? The symptoms are very, very similar to a faulty EGR valve and can give the same fault codes like P0400 which is pointing to an incorrect airflow. Even thrashing is no good once the carbon build up has started and the only way is to strip it down and clean by hand. The refusal to rev up may be the air flap sticking. You all have to remember that in these diesels it is the air that is controlled more so it is very unlikely to be fuel related. Fuel problems usually mean they wont start.
    I would start by removing the air flap housing and if it is carboned up clean out. Then inspect along the manifold and if there is carbon in there, strip and clean.
    You can only check the EGR valve operation with diagnostic equipment but you can do the rest yourself if you have some tools, a bit of patience and the time.

  5. #25
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    Mar 2012
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    Hi there, thanks for the speedy reply,

    The original baulking revving problem was sorted with the replacement EGR valve being fitted. The car no longer baulks or fails to rev at all but now has this whoosh whoosh and stutter at 2K revs under load as the original post, the whoosh whoosh stutter at 2k never happened before the EGR change.

    So after the Whoosh whoosh problem the following was done:

    The Diesel Filter replaced with the car oil and filter. The air filter was replaced as it found to be filthy, the MAF was removed but not cleaned as it was looking very clean, (however I understand that pollen can attract itself to the MAF so was going to remove again and clean with a simple electric contact cleaner from say Maplins.)

    Inlet manifold sensor on the rear of the manifold was removed, I don't know how the sensor worked at all as it was completely carbonised.

    The air flap wasn't cleaned out, is this an easy thing to do? I hardly recognise anything on the engine especially now with an electronic throttle!!! Is the flap is connected to the inlet manifold with a hose from the turbo intercooler on the RHS of the engine?

    Update to yesterday: I cleaned up the old unit and again it was blocked completely with carbon, I refitted it and the whoosh whoosh stopped as did the stuttering at 2K, "SUPERB" I thought. faulty new EGR valve. The old unit however gave me a few error codes and the engine warning light and spanner light came up, but the car drove perfectly at all stages. The codes referred to EGR valve stuck + several other EGR error codes, but after a few miles the the original baulking returned. DRAT and BLAST!!! So the new unit refitted and the whoosh whoosh stuttering at 2K revs returned. I reset the error codes and engine management light so the dash is clear of all codes and lights.

    Mick

  6. #26
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    May 2008
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    So sounds like you need to clean all the other bits as you say it was blocked completely with carbon. You are right with the location of the air flap housing. Once removed have a good look inside the manifold. Any carbon here will cause problems. The housing leads through to the EGR valve and as you clean it out you should see the concentric rings. They might be so bad with carbon that it looks like a black sealing ring, they get that bad. Remove all that you can to give it all a chance to work properly again.
    Make sure you do not touch the very delicate electronics inside the MAF with a screwdriver or anything else other than a good contact cleaner.

  7. #27
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    Mar 2012
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    Hi Hometune,
    Seems your the one to help me through this fricken madness that is the zafira, I tell you this car has been my favourite car yet my most hated car, its fantastic as I have 4 kids. Yet has let me down with every breath.
    1st the alternator went at 35K miles,
    2nd the air con failed, condenser went.
    3rd Traction control light came on. ABS unit sent away to BBA reman.
    4th EGR valve fail.
    What next?
    I will give you the crack tomorrow, thank you.
    Mick

  8. #28
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    Mar 2012
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    Hi there, removed and cleaned the air flap, it was a bit wet oily but nothing to cause concern, bolted back up, removed the MAF cleaned with electrical cleaner and.............................. just the same.

    wheres me matches?

  9. #29
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    Apr 2012
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    I got zaffi 1.9cdti 120. 06 plate. Am having same problems, i changed flywheel an clutch, gt brand new egr frm vauxhall dealers, but problem is still there, if i take egr wire of an drive the car is fine no missfire nuffin, but wen i put the wire bk on its starts missfire, dealers checked egr but they sayin therz nuffin wrng wid egr, i dnt understand wat the problem is, car done 141971miles, can any1 plz help

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    That's really interesting Kaz,

    My problem only started with a change of my EGR, now either the EGR is faulty or it needs some sort of software upgrade. I will disconnect the cable tomorrow see if it changes anything.

    mick

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