Renault Clio 2001 1.5 dCi Low Power - Electrical Warning Light
I'm having a bizzare issue with my Renault Clio 2001 1.5 dCi Dynamique.
Mechanical wise, the car is great, however.
During, or shortly after wet weather, the glow-plug/electrical fault light comes on and I lose power.
Not all power, it just seems to take a hell of a long time to accelerate. I can't take over other cars quickly etc..
I've read alot about the 'limp mode' that the ECU goes into when the Engine Stop light comes on that limits you to 3000 revs but this doesn't appear to be happening to me.
The symptoms are as follows:
* After rain, light comes on, sometimes during driving, sometimes from start
* When light is on, Idle revs is above 1000X RPM unlike <1000 like normal
* When you depress the brake pedal with left foot and use right foot to rev, nothing happens.
* When you release break, you can rev but it is delayed.
* During driving, when you change gear, even though your foot is not on the accelerator, when you put the clutch in, the engine revs up for about half a second before settling down.
* Sometimes you can get the light to go out by quickly flooring the accelerator, quickly releasing it, the light will go out and you can "catch" the revs back and all the power back.
* When the light is on, you have to change into 2nd to go up hills otherwise you slow to about 20MPH on a slight incline.
* When the light is on, you can't overtake lorries, just so little power.
* When the light is on you CAN get to about 90MPH but it takes about 5 minutes on a flat surface.
* When you depress the brake pedal, indicate right or put the car into reverse, the rear fog light indicator on the dash board comes on very faintly
First error codes indicated that the following faults were registered by the ECU:
* F/L ABS Sensor fault
* Glow Plug Open Circuit
* Throttle Potentiometer TRACK 1
* Throttle Potentiometer TRACK 2
* Brake Light Earth Fault
Things that have been replaced:
* ABS ring was freely spinning around the drive shaft, new drive shaft fitted
* New set of glow plugs fitted.
* New Throttle pedal, with body and everything fitted.
The dealer who I bought it off who has been kind enough to pay for the above replacement parts also mentioned that the short wiring loom can trigger this error but to try the new pedal first.
Can anybody shed any light on this issue it would be much appreciated.
The brake pedal has a switch above it that is linked to the ECU. When you brake, this switch tells the ECU and it cuts the fuel as well as putting on the brake lights.
So, the brake lights or switch need looking at first as they are on the fault list but not yet rectified.
Renault wiring is not the best and while you have replaced the potentiometer in the pedal, the fault may be a broken wire or poor connection.
How come when the car is working properly (during dry weather), I can press both pedals and still rev?
does it have original rear light units on or modified after market ones? usually when the fog light indicator light comes during brake pedal press there is a bad earth on one of the rear light units, check the pins and terminals to see if one looks "burnt" or overheated. The power should be cut when the brake pedal is pressed along with the throttle, all renaults have this feature. If you have replaced the pedal/potentiometer and still have a problem then you should check the terminals in the connector for the pedal.
OK, so I cleaned the back light terminals with switch cleaner and applied some contact grease.
All the codes have gone away but occasionally I still get the Electrical Warning light and it APPEARS as though the turbo doesn't work.
IE, Very hard to overtake lorries and stuff, takes ages to get up to speed.
When the light has been on i get the TRACK 1 and TRACK 2 codes.
The garage are convinced they keep fixing the problem, obviously they haven't .
It only appears to do this when I've taken the car through a car wash. in light rain it'll do it, but in heavy rain it doesn't seem to do it.
It's very very strange and I am at the end of my tether with it now.
I have even unplugged the ECU (3 large connectors) for a full day and the same stuff happens.
Does anyone have any ideas?
just to note aswell, so far I have had the following 'fixes' to my car:
EGR Valve cleaned,
Throttle Body replaced,
Rear light block connectors cleaned,
Cable from throttle body to ECU replaced (Although only about 2 feet of it as they had to cut the wires and solder them together, personally I think this was a stupid idea as it doesn't cover any cabling faults in the wiring loom through the bulkhead which is where I am CONVINCED the problem lies).
Identical set of symptoms
I have read your posting which absolutely precisely describes an exactly similar fault on my car Clio 1.5 dCi.
This is clearly some kind of loom fault and my experience is that it lies beyond the skill level of most dealerships.
I presume that many of these cars are now exhibiting this fault. I think Renault UK really ought to be providing some guidance on it.
Well, I've still got the car (A year on) and I've still got the issue.
It's nothing to do with the engine as I've had that replaced after a cam belt snapped.
I'm convinced it's the wiring loom, but where the break is I am unsure.
I don't have the time to try and sort this myself so if anyone can recommend a good solution, that would be great.
The only way to try and solve this would be to replace the loom.
Well I know the problem lies with one of the cables running from the throttle box..
All I need is a wiring diagram of the car so I can perform a continuity test and find out which one has resistance.
Then, pull the faulty strands out of the loom and replace them with new strands.
Easy as when you think about it, just takes a bit of doing is all.
All I really need is that wiring diagram, can't find one anywhere on google.. if anyone has any diagrams for this then I'd be greatful.
I don't really intend on buying an entire haynes manual for just an electrical fault.
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