Rover 214 no spark
i have a rover 214si 16 valve p reg and i cannot get a spark from it i used a multimeter to test the wiring loom thats fine and there is a current going to the ignition coil and from there to the dizzy cap.Ht leads have been changed and spark plugs but still no spark.Am i right to assume that the ecu has a fault or could it be something else?Would the alternator stop the car from getting a spark?I beleive it would not but unsure
Disconnect coil lead from distributor cap. Hold end near metal part of engine and crank it over. If it sparks then the rotor arm and/or distributor cap have failed. This is the most common fault on these engines. Replace both parts.
If you are getting a spark from the coil then rotor arm and cap are likely culprits as hometune states, either rotor arm failure or the little carbon brush in the centre of the cap.
If there is no spark direct from the coil you could look at the Crankshaft position sensor (pretty common failure).
Without a signal from this the ECU doesn't know the crankshaft position to send a spark.
Located on the back of the engine where the gearbox meets the engine block just above the sump, held on by one small bolt. The sensor fits through the flange and works off reference mark/s on the back of the flywheel.
hello again i have changed the rotor arm and dizzy cap and crank shaft sensor thats why i am leaning more towards the ecu.I have tested the king lead with a multimeter whilst starting the engine and it drops about 0.4 of a volt so its not doing what it should be doing i have changed that aswell.
Is the immobliser working okay? Does the fuel pump buzz for a few seconds when ignition switched on?
Other faults are blown ecu fuse caused by a short usually when a part of the wiring harness chafes through near the gearbox area. Check it carefully. In fact check all the harnesses carefully for breaks like this.
I have checked the whole of the wiring loom with the multimeter and it checks out fine have also checked the 4 main relays in the mems unit and they check fine,all fuses work and the fuel pump does buzz,its just the spark i cant seem to get.
In post #4 you say there is a volt drop of 0.4v across the king lead? I don't follow that but it has been a rather long day.
In post #2 hometune says to remove the king lead from the cap hold it close to a metal engine part and see if you are getting a good spark from the king lead to earth, you make no reference to having done this?
If there is a spark when you do this then there is only rotor arm, cap, leads and plugs remaining but you say you have replaced all these - i assume that the replacements are all known good serviceable parts and correct for the vehicle. Sorry if this seems a daft assumption but folk have been known to make these simple errors.
If there is no spark from the king lead and it is a known good lead then backtrack to the coil, power supply to the coil and the trigger for the coil.
Other than that if the fuel pump is priming and there are no secondary aftermarket immobiliser circuits fitted that you know of then I am a bit stumped. Again I assume that the car has been running previously and you haven't bought a non runner with no history with the aim of doing it up where anything is possible.
rotor arm rotating?
Just had a thought, have you checked that the rotor arm is rotating when the engine is cranking?
It is remotely possible (and I have come across it on a boy racer fast road/rally cam) that the camshaft has snapped near the end of the shaft and the rotor arm is not turning.... long shot but a thought nonetheless.
pretty sure its spinning even tho i havent phiscally seen i,when i changed the dizzy cap or taken it off to put back on the rotor moves position so i dont know i ll try the fault code reader and put a another post on to let you know how i got on.
just to add i have taken the king lead out and it has not got a spark but the coil is getting power from the battery all replacement parts are brand new(which has %@)" me off a bit because it hasnt made a differance.