Hello. Need some advice please
I recently purchased a 2007 Zafira SRI 1.9cdti 150 and have had problems with it since the start really. The problems are all related to the DPF and emissions system. I was getting the engine management light and glow plug light on dashboard with car going into limp mode.
I have now had the egr replaced, the turbo had to be reconditioned/repaired because of an oil leak and the DPF was replaced with one from another car. Also an air intake pipe was replaced.
The last thing to be done was the DPF replacement and the car has been running fine but i have been monitoring the DPF saturation levels using opcom device because this was the main issue previously with the blocked filter. The DPF is showing a level of 56% saturation at the moment and 165 km since last regen, which is about 77 miles.
Although there are no warning lights now and the car is running ok can someone advise if the saturation levels are too high for just 77 miles? When I checked before this reading it was showing at 30% saturation and 60 km since regen so im thinking that it is still getting sooted up too quickly but am not sure if this is normal? Thanks.
Last edited by xylor; 20-07-14 at 16:07.
What sort of journeys are you doing?
Around town or some decent motorway runs?
You said, " recently purchased" the car, did you buy it from a dealer, as if you did, it could still under warranty that all the dealers have to give now.If it was a private buy, then you have no come back on the seller, good luck in getting it sorted.
Yes it was bought from a dealer and it has been back with them 4 times since purchasing. Each time they have replaced/repaired something. The first time it was the turbo, the second some intake air pipe, third was the egr valve and now last time it was the dpf filter. They said that it should all be ok now but as you can expect i had lost confidence in the car and after reading about all the issues that these dpf filters cause. I have had it back for a few days now and they said that dpf was regening fine and just to drive it on motorway once in a while to give car a change to regen. I had since used an opcom device which is showing the levels i described earlier and wasn't sure if the increase in saturation after only driving for 77 miles after regen is normal. Some of that was on motorway but surely it shouldn't be that high already?
Are the intake air flaps clear? Look down into the channel that runs across the engine. You will see a metal bar that should be attached to 4 pegs (all these parts are quite small). Does this bar move properly and fully?
The problem you have is that while the dealer has replaced the EGR and DPF, if there is any clogging up in the intakes then the regeneration may not be properly successful. These flaps are part of the intake manifold by the way.
If they are all okay then the next check is the pipe from the DPF to the DPF sensor. Check it is not partially blocked with soot/oil/carbon. Now check the EGR valve position on Opcom with the engine idling and hot. What is the reading?
When any parts are replaced that are connected to the emissions system on this engine then you MUST reset the adaptives for each component which you can do with Opcom - its under 'Programming'. So reset the EGR and DPF before going any further.
Once that is done carry out a forced regeneration using Opcom, again in 'Programming', following the instructions i.e. coolant temp above 70c etc. Once you have done the forced regeneration the filter saturation will be around zero at idle rising to around 10 with revs if the procedure is successful.
Lastly, YOU MUST ONLY USE THE CORRECT GRADE AND SPEC OF OIL FOR THIS ENGINE. This is absolutely essential and cannot be stressed enough. If you do not use low SAPS (low sulphur content) oil then the DPF will clog up rapidly. You should also only use quality fuel such as Shell or BP.
Thank you in advance for your assistance. I will check for the bar being loose on the inlet manifold but had a quick look at the programming options on Opcom and there is an option for 'replacing DPF'. Is this what you mean? I cant see anything similar for the EGR though. I'm a bit reluctant with a forced regen because in the last 2 months it has already had this done 3 times by different garages although not after the DPF was replaced.
I'm not a mechanic in any sense :-) so not sure of i will be able to check the pipe from DPF to the sensor even if i can find it. I cant seem to find any garage that has experience with this type of issue/engine and am reluctant to take to main dealers because of the costs.
At the moment the DPF saturation is showing 78% and around 120 miles since last regen. Am i correct into thinking that the car will kick off a regen when it gets to 80% saturation?
I would first check the inlet flap operation. Then check the fault codes and pray that P2279 is not showing or the flaps are broken/seized/stuck. Clear all codes.
Yes, use 'replacing DPF' and carry out every operation you can in there. It wont do any harm at all. If the engine ecu has not been programmed that the DPF has been replaced then it will carry on thinking the old one is fitted.
As the DPF has been replaced, doing a forced regeneration will do no harm. You should see the clock counting down and the saturation decreasing slowly. If you allow it to block up then a forced regeneration will not work.
The other option is to have the DPF removed and programmed out of the car. Many companies do this now - look up DPF Removal in Google - and once done, never a problem again. Rough cost around £300. Worth considering I think.
I went for a motorway drive this morning, around 20 mile round journey and after checking this afternoon, the saturation was showing 24% now and 18 miles since last regen. So it looks as though the car regenerated this morning. still not sure if it should be regenerating after 120 miles since previous regen or be at 24% saturation already?
I checked the inlet flaps and the bar is attached and does move when reving the car. It wobbles slightly when you touch the bar but not sure if this is normal?
Should i still reset the DPF?
I was up for the idea of getting the DPF removed until i found out that the MOT rules have changed this year. 'The vehicle will automatically fail the MOT test if the filter had been fitted as standard but is found to be no longer present.' :-( This is from https://www.gov.uk/government/news/n...iculate-filter
I guess those that had it removed might be in a bit of a bother now.
Absolutely not. A MOT tester is not allowed to dismantle anything on the car whatsoever. When DPFs are removed, only the honeycomb internal section is taken out and the original casing is left. Therefore, it is impossible for an MOT tester to fail the car so long as the DPF warning light or engine management light are not lit which good DPF removal companies do.
As I have said in detail above, if the wrong engine oil type is used then regenerating will occur more frequently. I would change the oil and filter and reset the DPF anyway. That way you know where you are starting from.
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