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Thread: Vectra 2 litre DTI (Y20DTH) swirl flaps

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    75

    Default Vectra 2 litre DTI (Y20DTH) swirl flaps

    Hello, Had my vectra (2 litre DTI, 04 reg,) a couple of weeks now and getting around to some odd jobs now i have serviced it, oils & filters etc.

    Sorry that the following post is quite long.........

    One thing i am having a little trouble with is the swirl flaps operation. These apparently are supposed to be in the closed position when engine speed is under around 1500 rpm & the actuator vacuum valve should open them at higher speeds.

    Have looked at the actuator valve when the engine speed has been increased by someone working the throttle for me but i do not see any movement from this valve?

    There was a split pipe from the actuator vacuum solenoid valve which i replaced & checked all other vacuum lines & replaced as required. Plenty of vacuum from the vacuum pump & when i suck on the pipe from the actuator vacuum diaphragm it operates ok (hold the vacuum with my tongue & the valve stays in that position so the actuator valve diaphragm seems ok.)

    Also the turbo wastegate is responding to vacuum when the engine is running.

    As these valve butterflies are well carboned up i intend to remove the inlet manifolds & clean them up when time permits....maybe this would help matters but the flaps do move freely when actuated by hand.

    Could it be that since it has been running for some time with this vacuum pipe split (by the previous owner) that the ecu needs time to "relearn" certain values before swirl flap actuation will return to normal?

    Ooh, no fault codes are showing & seems to run & start fine (this is my first diesel car). Takes a long time for the temp gauge to go up though but have been told that this quite normal for these engines.

    Any comments appreciated!

    Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    8,437

    Default

    Welcome to the world of the DTH!!! I think the flaps will only operate under load, not when the car is stationary. If the car performs and there are no EGR related fault codes then they will be ok.
    Definitely remove the inlet manifold and clean everything out along with the EGR valve. Don't forget to remove the MAP sensor and carefully clean out the tip as the small hole gets carbon in it. Don't poke with a sharp point though, best use carb cleaner.
    Safety tip. The diesel pressure in this engine is huge so be very careful when undoing injector pipes.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Many , many thanks for that Hometune.

    You have confirmed my theory about the swirl flaps only operating under load. I have searched every vectra website for info on how these function with no luck. Should have posted here first!

    I removed the EGR valve the other week & thats how i saw the ammount of carbon present. Removing the top section of the manifold where the boost pressure sensor is mounted gave me a good view of the swirl flaps....makes one wonder how they run at all with the ammount of gunge that collects there!

    I cleaned the boost sensor with carb cleaner. Realising how delicate these are i treated it with kid gloves.....to be honest thought the boost sensor wasnt too bad for carbon but i cleaned it anyway ( also cleaned the EGR valve while i was at it. & this was not too badly clogged up either)

    One other thing i have noticed....when cold & setting off through the gears, if the revs get to around 1500 rpm it makes a hell of a pinking kind of noise. I wouldnt call it a rattle but more of an "old diesel tractor" kind of noise.

    When normal eng temp is reached (80-85 degrees) it quietens down a lot. I have read a lot about this on the net but some say it is normal for these engines.

    Not that i ever thrash it though, my driving pleasure comes from driving smoothly.... to old to be a boy racer

    Huge thanks again Hometune.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mick.n View Post

    I removed the EGR valve the other week & thats how i saw the ammount of carbon present. Removing the top section of the manifold where the boost pressure sensor is mounted gave me a good view of the swirl flaps....makes one wonder how they run at all with the ammount of gunge that collects there!
    When you decide to clean the flaps, after you have removed the top cover, locate the bolts that hold the manifold itself. You will probably have to chisel off a lot of carbon just to find them. Use a good fitting socket as they are usually very tight. Be careful when lifting the manifold off to not damage the gasket unless fitiing a new one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Thank you Hometune. I hope to get this done next week . Intend to get the gaskets,etc before i take it apart.

    The haynes manual (FWIW as these manuals always seem to have a tendency err on the side of caution ) states that the lower manifold fasteners should be replaced on reassembly, dont see why that should be necessary though.

    Many thanks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    8,437

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    No, I don't either. They are only a type of bolt. Ones I have done are okay and they were not replaced.

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